Tuesday, May 28, 2013

And I thought Amazon.com was dangerous!


My favorite State Department comments (in no particular order) about travel in Peru…and this is a country not on the restricted list:

1.      Drivers should not travel alone on rural roads, even in daylight. 

2.      Inter-city bus travel is dangerous. Armed robbers force passengers off buses and steal their belongings.

3.      The Shining Path terrorist group remains active in Peru and has previously expressed an intention to target U.S. interests. Sporadic incidents of Shining Path violence have occurred in the recent past in rural provinces within the Regions of Ayacucho, Cusco, Huancavelica, Huánuco, and Junín.  Hey what a coincidence, these are the providences I plan on being in!

4.      Emergency Zones designated by the Government of Peru and areas where terrorist groups or narcotics traffickers are known to operate or have recently resorted to violent actions. Overland travel in or near these areas, particularly at night, is risky. The following list contains the current restricted zones: Parts of the Apurimac, Ayacucho, and Cusco.  Well dang!  This is the first river leg of my adventure!  C’mon on Peru, what gives! Bummer, because the list goes on for the entire desired route!

5.      Violent Crime: Violent crime, including carjacking, assault, sexual assault, and armed robbery is common in Lima and other large cities. The Embassy is aware of reports of women being sexually assaulted in their place of lodging, or after their drinks were drugged while visiting bars or nightclubs.  I better watch my drinks…oops did I say that with a lisp!

6.      "Express kidnappings," in which criminals kidnap victims and seek to obtain funds from their bank accounts via automatic teller machines, occur frequently.

7.      Taxis and Road Crime: Passengers who hail taxis on the street have been assaulted and robbed. Street taxis are not well regulated and are often used as a front by criminals to rob unsuspecting victims. Do not hail taxis on the street.  For a minute there I thought I was in NY.

8.      Theft: Travelers should guard against the theft of luggage and other belongings, particularly U.S. passports, at the Lima airport.  At the airport…I know some really good airport managers!

9.      Street Crime: Thieves often smash car windows at traffic lights to grab jewelry, purses, backpacks, or other visible items from a car. This type of assault is very common on main roads leading to and from Lima's International Airport.  Street crime is also prevalent in cities in Peru's interior, including Cusco, Arequipa, Puno, and Juliaca. U.S. citizens traveling alone or in unescorted groups are more vulnerable to street crime.  Snap, I was hoping Lima was the only problem area.

10.  Tourists should be particularly cautious when visiting the Sacsayhuaman ruins outside Cusco. They should not travel alone, but rather in as large a group as possible. There have also been reports of tourists being robbed by armed men who may be affiliated with politically motivated terrorist groups.  What happened to leaving tourists alone and just drug and gang related violence – like the good ole USVI.  

11.  Clandestine, impromptu roadblocks can appear on even major highways, where bus and automobile passengers are robbed.

12.  Fraud: Counterfeit U.S. currency is a growing and serious problem in Peru. There have also been several reported incidents of counterfeit currency being paid out as winnings by casinos. 

Gives a new meaning to “Adventure Travel”  Any last minute takers who want to go with me?

Monday, May 20, 2013

Time is everything!

In two weeks I leave for Peru.  Currently I am wrapping up my legal cases with clients by finding other competent attorneys to complete the client work.  We also have a major renovation of a hotel property on St. Croix that I am overseeing.  No time will ever be good to take an adventure like this, but obligation wise, it is the closest I will get to freeing up my time while I am still in fairly good health (or retire early and die in poverty). 

Preparation wise, I think I am almost there.  REI had most of what I needed - thanks to Ginny their resident Peru expert.  I have the basic survival tools bought (let's see other than a book of matches I got from the restaurant I ate at last night...).  Last month I had my yellow fever shot, typhoid, hep A and B, tetanus booster, malaria medicine (specific for the Peru jungle), antibiotics, etc.  A few more things to buy, but everything fits in the pack.  I may need a porter for the whole trip!  Just joking.  Everything is lightweight and kept to bare necessity.  It will be very interesting to see how I do without all the creature comforts I am accustomed to - my trip luxury is that my hammock has a mosquito net!

In addition to constantly reevaluating my gear, my health should be my biggest challenge.  I am not a spring chicken.  At 52 I am 20 pounds over weight (my doctor would say 30 lbs.).  I do not exercise and even though I said I would do some hiking to get into shape, I have miserably failed to do so.  My right knee constantly hurts, as does my left wrist.  Otherwise, I am in great shape! lol.

Now I know many of you think of me as a talented attorney in a comfy office environment.  This is true.  But when I was a spring chicken I was quite active in the outdoors.  I used to be a WSI, I had EMT training, white water rafting, spelunking, mountain climbing, Nordic skiing, and a few other things - which I am sure I have forgot half of it and the other half I remember is no longer applicable because it has been updated and changed.  So I am no Bear Grylls but I can tell UP from down and laughed when young Ellie said "South America. It's like America, but south."  Hmmm...well I am going to find out if young Ellie is right.       

Comienza la cuenta regresiva!





Sunday, May 19, 2013

McMurphy - a nut with guts, right Jack!

My whole life I have always been fascinated with the Amazon.  I will not bore you with the details of why now, but enough stars have aligned to allow me to try this adventure.  Those of you who know me well know that one of my top life philosophies is that "at least trying, even if you fail, is better than wishing you had."

This Adventure may very well be beyond my reach. I have no idea at this point if I can find the guides to take me through the Peruvian head waters of the Amazon River (Kimbiri Region to Atalaya).  The type of guides needed are not on the internet, are not in any guide book or advertising somewhere. Even jungle survival camps cannot help direct me to any guides for this region.  I have tried every avenue I know for years to locate someone, and short of being on the ground in the Amazon, there is no real way of finding the right guides willing to take a gringo into very dangerous territory; in addition to animals, reptiles, insects, and plants that want to kill you, the route requires you to go through the red zone (coca/drug cartels/guerillas), areas with a lot of illegal activity exploiting natural resources, indigenous tribes, and just people who do not like gringos. Oh did I mention the dangerous rivers, canyons over twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, mountains, and jungles?  Yet the adventure beckons me to try!

I welcome you to follow me on this blog as I set out to see if this can be done.  The first part of this adventure is to go to Peru and seek out trustworthy guides.  The next part will be the actual travel through the headwaters.  The map on this page shows the typical part of the Amazon that most tourist explore (highlighted in violet).  The green highlight in Peru, is the river system I hope to take: Apurimac, Ene, Tambo, and Ucayali.     

A note to Mom:  I am adventurous, but I will be careful or I will not venture into the hostile areas. Love you!

Una aventura de por vida!